I suspect the article writer was given a nice bonus for mentioning all the brand names (Wonder bread, Pop Rocks, Altoids, etc.). Sneaky way to advertise: Write something that appears newsworthy, to make the ad seem more legitimate. And of course the profiteers will publish these advertisements as "news" (it will mean more money for everyone, right?). But the fact is: Processed foods that use really cheap ingredients like sugar, corn syrup, white flour, cheap fat and artificial ingredients are also high-profit foods. You don't see nearly as much advertising for whole grain oat meal or carrots. There's not enough profit for such items! There's hardly a middle man; it practically goes from the farm to your table.
For the really savvy chef, nothing can beat basic ingredients. The Bon Appetit article mentions Nabisco Ginger Snaps to top a butternut squash; "only" $5/16 oz. box. So I assume you use a little bit for topping that healthy squash, and then you gorge on the leftover cookies? Not really economical. I discovered that I can take the basic table crackers we keep in stock, adding a bit of sugar and ginger spice if I want a "Ginger Snap" flavored crust or whatever.
The article also mentions Orange-flavored Pop Rocks, used to flavor Chocolate Mousse. But you can just add a touch of orange extract to that chocolate mousse. No need to buy a package of junk food candy, complete with artificial additives. Altoids are also mentioned, but again, mint extract works at least as well; it's packed with flavor and can sub just fine for those Altoids.
Wonder bread is even mentioned, as an addition to meatballs, because it "blends more easily... making a lighter meatball". But how 'bout just processing some oats for that meatball? The oats process into a fine crumb, they add thickening, and are a whole grain. Why would you pay someone else to process the life out of wheat, and substitute that?!
Also, humm... Potato Chips as a substitute for Panko (soft bread crumbs)? Just what we need when we're dipping things into the bread crumbs, to then get fried: Already deep-fried chip crumbs, that will then be fried once more! I guess I would opt for the panko, or soft bread crumbs. Using crushed potato chip crumbs before frying is right up there with the deep-fried butter stick offered at some state fairgrounds.
But hey, thumbs up on the organic tomatoes and frozen pearl onions mentioned in the article. Now there's a a case where you're paying for the basic ingredient, not for the extra processing of dirt cheap ingredients into artificial replicas of the real thing!
The idea of going for basic ingredients and avoiding processed ones is just one of the things you can do to help make this world more sustainable. A friend at Massage Therapy Schools has made quite a comprehensive list: "100 Ways You Can Have a More Sustainable Table". It includes links to more reference pages on where to buy local food in your area, etc. Check it out for details!
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